Montreal

The second largest city in Canada and Quebec's largest is Montreal. Its nickname is the City of Saints due to the fact that there are countless street names beginning with 'Saint'. The city itself has 1.5 million people who call it home, with a further 2 million in the surrounding metropolitan area.

Montreal is actually on an island where the St. Lawrence and Ottowa rivers meet. To give you some idea of the climate here, the St. Lawrence is usually frozen for the best part of 5 months a year. Any British visitor would feel quite at home here, as the weather is as changeable and unpredictable as the UK.

The first language here is French. The French were the first Europeans to settle here. There followed a war with the British, as is so common throughout history, and the territory was ceded to the British army. Thus the second language is English. Two thirds of Montreal are Francophones, not quite 15% are Anglophones and the rest are Allophones, which is to say those whose first language is neither French nor English. If you come here, at least try to communicate using some French. It's not important if you then have to revert to English, what is important is that you've shown respect to the French-speaking majority. Tu comprends?

The city is dominated by Mount Royal, a marvellous urban park, designed in 1876 by Mr Olmsted, the man who also designed New York's Central Park. At the foot of this lies the downtown area, nicely sandwiched between the park and the St.Lawrence. You'll find some tall buildings here but none taller than Mount Royal - it's against the law. So instead, where does one build all the offices needed in any self-respecting business district? Why, underground, of course! The Underground City, or should I say La Ville Souterraine, is an astonishing 32km labyrinth of tunnels connecting 60 business and commercial complexes. 80% of Montreal's office space is found here, not to mention the banks, educational institutions, museums, train and bus stations and even the ice-hockey arena, home to the city's Canadiens (incidentally the most successful team in the American National Hockey League with an impressive 24 Stanley Cup titles). Half a million people a day enter and exit from the 160 access points, not only to go about their daily business but very often just to get some respite from the incredibly cold Montreal winters (January averages -10°c). The downtown section is now called Rèso and has a branding and image distinct from the rest of the 'city'. I tell you, it's worth coming here just to wander around underground all day. If you're not used to it, it's quite an experience.

However, a little natural light now and then is good for you so let's come up for some air. Why not head over to the Olympic stadium, specially built for the 1976 games. Not only can you see where the waif-like gymnasts Nellie Kim and Nadia Comaneci battled it out to share 6 gold medals, but where young unknown boxers such as Sugar Ray Leonard and Michael and Leon Spinks battered their way to Olympic success before becoming professional world champions. The Cuban Juantorena became the first man to win both the 400m and 800m titles at the same games. It was also the first time that the host nation failed to win a gold medal. While at the stadium you can also visit the botanical gardens and what's known as the Insectorium, a type of insect zoo where you can even try different foods cooked using insects as ingredients. I can't tell you how disappointed I was that on the day I went the chef was on holiday.

If you're here on a Sunday morning you simply must get over to Mount Royal, specifically to the statue of George Etienne Cartier where you'll find the Tam-Tams. This is an unofficial 'party' of drumming, juggling and dancing attended by hundreds of locals and tourists alike just looking to have a good time. You're sure to as well.

Finally, some trivia. In fact, if you've ever played the best-selling international board game Trivial Pursuits I'm sure you've also wondered where the creators were from. Can you guess? Yes, right here in Montreal. But not only, tennis players Mary Pierce and Greg Rusedski are two of Montreal's finest, singer Celine Dione, she of Titanic soundtrack fame, and best of all, 'Beam me up, Scotty' - William Shatner, Star Trek's Captain Kirk is from here.